Making of Gumi (Sandplay)

It's been a while since I completed this costume (1 1/2 - 2 months?) but it's a project that I enjoyed immensely, and meant to blog about sooner and didn't. I first saw Gumi's Sandplay varient a few months ago, alongside a comment from the artist and designer: "Please feel free to let your own imagination run away with you and alter my designs. As long as you make them as flashy as possible."

So that's what I tried to do with this, and I found making it so enjoyable. Before I started on this project, I was also sorting through my fabrics and supplies and found that I had a lot of the materials that I'd need for this costume already! And keeping costs down on costumes is always enjoyable. XD

Preliminary sketch of the design with notes on closures, fastenings and details.

The blouse toille, pattern and base garment - my parents were only a little mortified at how short this top is? XD;

For the 'fluff' on the sleeves, I cut out a whole bunch of petal-like shapes in various sizes, and then burnt the edges with a lighter to seal the raw edge. It took a while because cigarette lighters aren't really designed to be left on for minutes at a time, but it was definitely worth it - I got received a lot of compliements on the day of how these sleeves turned out. =3

The pattern for the bodice-vest was modified from some of my existing patterns as I had to make it a lot more closer fitting. I also took the chance to play around with my seamlines, and instead of using a normal princess seam, I ran all my shaping seams vertically up to the shoulder. Here is the orginal pattern and the modified toille on black faux seude.

Next up was the bustle! It was a little tricky as Gumi's bustle is shown as having all these pretty decorative ruffled on the opposed to the outside, where they'd actually be supporting the back of the dress! So here's the inside of the bustle with alternating layers of offcuts from another dress.

And the outside of the bustle with layers of tulle ruffles.

Here's how everything's looking after I'd cut out the back of the skirt.

Bodice progress! I really love the detail around the collar, and I'd just machine sewn on the gold ribbon detail. Unfortunately, all the rest of the sequin and bead trim on this bodice had to be hand sewn on. OTL; I also put the zipper in the front of the garment, so it could be easily covered with the cravat later, whilst still keeping clean lines in the back. (I've also dyed the blouse, which was just done with some off-the-shelf synthetic dyes).

Speaking of the cravat! I played around with a few shapes to get it looking right...and it turned out to be a heart shape, how cute! XD I'd also gone and bought a few plastic 'lace' overlays for tables, and used them as stencils for the gold detail here, and on the bottom of the vest.

The (nearly) finished skirt and blouse on the line drying from purple gradient dye. I think my skirt ended up being 1 1/2 circles, with each layer's hem being re-inforced with fishing wire, and having a supportive tulle layer underneath. I also had to make the waistband of this skirt incredibly form-fitting as it sits so far down on my hips.

Detail on the cravat! I've somehow gotten a lot of beads left over from previous projects, so I did go a bit nuts one night trying to see how many I could get away with putting on this! It's all hand beaded, and I ended up putting a peach sparkle-organza over it to tie it in with the rest of the outfit.

And here's what the outfit ended up looking like on the day!

(I don't think I could show more midriff, even if I tried! D8)
I missed quite a lot of progress, so a few other points:
- the veil is mounted on a headband, and has a layer of sparkle tulle over it
- my gloves were originally white 'driving gloves' from Daiso, that I dyed, and then butchered. The ruffles have more gold bead and sequin trim, as well as sparkle tulle and lace to match the boob ruffles.
- I love the silly lop-sided bow on the skirt, again, I attacked it with sparkle tulle, and the rose at the centre of it was just one that I had lying around from Doll (Kuroshitsuji).
- the peach sparkle organza overlay on the skirt was a lucky buy on the discount table at Spotlight, and just happened to match the blouse and the rest of the outfit pretty well!
- I took a lot of inspiration for detailing from the VisKei band, Versailles. I've had a lot of people say I should make some of their outfits in the past, but I think this is the closest I'll ever get. n_n;

So this is (unfortunately) all there is of this costume so far! I'm waiting for to be able to do a photoshoot, but I'd at least like a Gakupo first. XD


Private comment


hello! first i would like to say this is a super gorgeous cosplay. i had a lot of trouble finding this tutorial but it is a total treasure...i am starting to work on my own Gumi Sandplay cosplay, and this tutorial has actually helped so much just as i'm designing. I have a few questions, I hope you don't mind? first, what kind fabric did you use for the bodice/vest?? and what kind of fabric for the skirt/cravat/blouse?
Thankyou so much for making this tutorial!!

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Just another cosplayer with stage fright who's chronically chained to their sewing machine.

20's, Melbourne - Australia

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