Making of Turquoise (Sakizo's Romantic Jewels) - part I

I've had fabrics for this costume for at least the past year, and am finally putting them to use! >D I've been working on this for the past three weekends, but am going to put it on hold for now to work on other costumes for (sooner) conventions.

All good costumes start with creature assistence - thanks Paris. I started at the bottom of the costume...literally. For the bloomers, I used a previous puffy-pants pattern as my base, and once cut out, began interfacing, sewing and ruffling all the details that'd go on.

I opted to continue the stripe pattern to the back for continuity's sake, but left off the ruffles.

Then the back and crotch were sewn up, and the legs elastisized and trimmed in lace.

They look a lot better on! And my stripes match up at the back too :D

I then attached them to the top that I'd made, creating a sort of playsuit-thing. The neckline's elastisized, and the shoulders have an interfaced base-ruffle for me to work more ruffles onto later.

I'm using the same corset-cover technique that I used here. To get the pattern for the corset, I laid it out onto patterning paper, and pinned it down along the seams, I then connected the pin holes on the paper to form the pattern piece...and repeat several more times for all the corset segments!

I got a bit carried away and forgot to take photos, but here are the corset cover pieces all sewed up! It's still really important to interface the fabric so that it sits nicely over the corset. It'll also still be prone to some pulling, so that can be minimised with interfacing.

I also made my own diamond pattern for the small segments on the corset by sating stitching pattern lines where needed. I also put these feature panels around on the back for some continuity, and just because I thought it looked nice. :3

To finish embellishing the corset, I knife pleated some folded sections of fabric, and attached them to the front, and also the bottom edge whilst I was facing it.

With both the upper and lower facing sewn in, I just had to lay the cover over the corset, and mark in where to hammer in decorative eyelets, as well as holes in the front for the busk to come through the fabric. Once that's done, I just laced the corset (a bit tricky going through three sets of holes), and discretely handstitched the cover to the corset to ensure it stays in place.

It's not really worth mentioning, but I was wanting to test out how my machine would embroider with metallic thread, so I tried it out on some ruffles, and then gathered them into a choker.

Neck ruff time! It took me a while to figure out, but I eventually figured out a shape for the base of the ruff which would support itself with minimal anchor points. Because I wasn't sure how many ruffles I'd have to put on it for it to look right, I reinforced the edge with wire that's soldered and stitched in place.

It's a bit of a slow process, but I measured out the width and length of the ruffles, embroidered the edge and reinforced it with fishing wire threaded through the french hem. I then started pinning them onto the base, and hand sewed them in place at the ruffled edge, and also with some stay stitches at the embroidered hem to keep the ruffles sitting flat.

I didn't want the back of the ruff to be boring and white, so I used what I had left of my corset fabric, and embroidered another diamond pattern to match :D Of course I wasn't satisfied, so I went back and beaded every x-intersection. ORZ

I also decided to sew the chest cover into the neck ruff so that it'd all sit flat...but then got carried away with beading it, but I'm really happy with how it looks! :D

That's all for now, but I'll pick this back up in a month. :)


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Just another cosplayer with stage fright who's chronically chained to their sewing machine.

20's, Melbourne - Australia

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